The area surrounding Moab is a desert climbers dreamland. The
climbing around here is done on Sandstone. Varying hardness’s
of sandstone defines the different places to climb around here.
My
personal favorite place to climb around here is Wall Street.
Wall Street is located right next to
Potash road. When I say “right next” I mean “right
next”, you can belay from your car at this place. The climbing
here is unbelievable, everything from 5.8 trad or sport routes
to .12’s. Wall Street is about a mile and a half long, climbs
grace it’s entire length.
Castle Valley is not too far from Moab. This area is home to
Castleton Tower, this is a 400 foot free standing tower. First
climbed in 1961 by Layton Kor and Huntley Ingalls this is still
today considered a plum in desert climbing. Just a glimpse of
this tower is impressive, rising above a talus cone this slender
stick of stone is quite a sight.
For the best desert beta be sure and stop by the Moab climbing
Shop. This shop has been around since 1992. The owner Kevin
Chase has pioneered many first ascents in the Moab area. I have
stopped in there several times and found the employee’s and
Kevin to be very helpful. If you are going to Moab and need some
gear wait till you get here and buy it from Kevin!
Climbing:
Moab Area
6875 South Kiesta, West Jordan, UT 84084