Wall Street is a great Moab area destination, Wall
Street is a section of Potash road. Potash road is
located just north of Moab, off highway 191. About four miles down the
road begins the climbing. If you don't like to have to hike for your
climbing your going to love Wall Street. The climbs can be belayed from
the car. There is variety of trad and sport climbs here. Everything
from great protectable cracks to desperate sport routes.
Further north by Salt Lake City lie the cottonwood canyons. In
The Big Cottonwood Canyon you will find climbs on quartzite. If you are looking
for sport routes in the big head to the S-curve area. Here you will
find sport
routes of all difficulties. If you are looking for moderate trad routes a
couple of fun places to hit are the JHCOB wall and the Dead
Snag Arete area. Both offer stellar multi-pitch climbs at moderate grades. For a great place to have a picnic in the
mountains and enjoy moderate trad routes head up to storm mountain island.
Here you will find picnic areas and great rock with a great variety of
routes. If you feel up to it head up Goodro's crack, led by Harold Goodro
in the forties. Quite an ominous looking route, can only imagine it with
equipment back then. There are a couple easy bolted routes on the
island. Six appeal and six pence both are good routes to initiate the new
leader.
The Little Cottonwood is mostly comprised of granite. Most of the
climbs follow cracks and other obvious weaknesses. Although there are a
lot of slabby sport climbs. A good place for the budding leader is the
Gate Buttress. Climbs of all kinds dot the surface of the gate
buttress. Presently the LDS church is removing boulders from this area to
build their new assembly building, access is kinda tight here therefore.
This area was once a spectacular bouldering playground with a variety of
problems. Who knows what effect this project will have on this beautiful
place. A great place to escape the heat of the summer days is the Coal
Pitch Gulch area. This area is accessed by the pump house parking
area. You can spot this gully from the road, just follow the trail over
the bridge head east for a while and make your way up to the gully.
Pentapitch is located down low on this gully and is a great climb. Head
further up and find the gulch area. Here there are a number of great sport
routes on excellent granite.
