The Little Cottonwood Canyon has long been the
destination of climbers from around the US. The ”Little” is mostly comprised of granite. The
majority of the climbs follow cracks and other weaknesses. There
are quite a few slabby “sport” routes, Little Cottonwood
sport routes are not your typical sport routes. Most of these
routes were pioneered from the ground up, in bold style. A good
place for the budding leader is the Gate buttress.
Climbs of all
kinds dot the surface of the gate buttress. Presently, the LDS
church is removing boulders from this area to build their new
assembly building, therefore access is kind of tight here. This
area was once a spectacular bouldering playground with a variety
of problems. Who knows what effect this project will have on
this beautiful place?
Lisa’s Falls is a great area for someone new to the sport.
Easy sport and trad routes can be found here. A waterfall
provides a pleasant atmosphere. Many people also climb here, so
be prepared for crowds.
Click
here for an on-line climbing guide of Lisa's Falls.
A great place to escape the heat of the summer days is the coal
pitch gulch
area. This crag is accessed by the pump house
parking area. You can spot this gully from the road, just follow
the trail over the bridge. head east for a while and make y
our
way up to the gully. Pentapitch is located down low on this
gully and is a great climb. Head further up and find the gulch
area. Here there are a number of great sport routes on excellent
granite.
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