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Climbing:  Wall Street

Disclaimer: CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS.  This is only a guide.  You are responsible for your own safety.  For a more detailed guide purchase the Eric Bjornstad book, Desert Rock:  Wall Street To The San Rafael Swell.

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Potash road is located to the right about a mile past the turn off to Arches, provided you are coming in from the North.  

This guide highlights some of the more popular climbs.  About 4.4 miles down the road you will come across Seibernetics,  the first of the popular routes. 

Seibernetics is a 5.8+ mixed route. wpe4.jpg (45806 bytes) There are two drilled angles low on the route, after those gear is required.  The route climbs the face up to a right facing dihedral.  The hard part begins after you clip the second piton.  Many ascents have made this section very slippery.  Finger strength and trust in your feet will get you through.

 

wpe7.jpg (32844 bytes)El Cracko Diablo .10a is left of Seibernetics about 125' where the rock becomes varnished all the way down to the road.  This route accepts one inch gear for most of its length.  Use your shoulders on the beginning.  This is a great gear route.  The face to the left of El Cracko Diablo was once a top rope route.  El Cracko Diablo Direct is rated .11+.  It now has four bolts on it.

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Fist Full of Potash .10a is about 85 feet left of the approach to the top of schoolroom 1.  Follow the bolt and two pitons to the crack.  Then continue on to the three bolt anchor.

 

wpe5.jpg (32686 bytes)Knapping With The Alien .11d is located under a curving roof about 70 feet from the ground.  It follows a series of edges up a bolted face which is height dependent.  There are five drilled angles on the route

 

Bad Moki Roof  5.9 is about 60 feet past the third reflector post.  wpe19.jpg (26306 bytes)It is a very obvious climb thanks to the big roof it surmounts.  Climb up the right facing dihedral then pull the roof and continue on to the anchors

 

wpe2.jpg (37700 bytes)Flakes Of Wrath 5.9+ is about 20 feet left of Bad Moki Roof.  The route begins up an undercling flake and then you get to the business.  Small pockets after the first overhang provide the challenge of the route

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Thirty Seconds Over Potash 5.8 is usually identified by the crowds around it.  This route is a left facing dihedral.  This climb is a trad route following a crack in the dihedral

 

wpe1D.jpg (23910 bytes)Nervous In Suburbia 10.a is a heavily traveled route located to the left of Thirty Seconds.  Climb the face past two pitons and three bolts.

 

 

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