road is located to the right about a mile past the turn off to Arches,
provided you are coming in from the North.
guide highlights some of the more popular climbs. About
4.4 miles down the road you will come across Seibernetics,
the first of the popular routes.
is a 5.8+ mixed route.
There are two drilled angles low on the route, after those gear
is required. The route climbs the face up to a right
facing dihedral. The hard part begins after you clip the
second piton. Many ascents have made this section very
slippery. Finger strength and trust in your feet will get
Cracko Diablo .10a is left of Seibernetics about 125'
where the rock becomes varnished all the way down to the road.
This route accepts one inch gear for most of its length.
Use your shoulders on the beginning. This is a great gear
route. The face to the left of El Cracko Diablo was once a
top rope route. El Cracko Diablo
Direct is rated .11+. It now has four bolts on it.
Full of Potash .10a is about 85 feet left of the approach
to the top of
schoolroom 1. Follow the bolt and two pitons to the crack.
Then continue on to the three bolt anchor.
With The Alien .11d is located under a curving roof about
70 feet from the ground. It follows a series of edges up a
bolted face which is height dependent. There are five
drilled angles on the route
Moki Roof 5.9 is about
60 feet past the third reflector post. It is a very
obvious climb thanks to the big roof it surmounts. Climb
up the right facing dihedral then pull the roof and continue on
to the anchors
Of Wrath 5.9+
is about 20 feet left of Bad Moki Roof. The route begins
up an undercling flake and then you get to the business.
Small pockets after the first overhang provide the challenge of
Seconds Over Potash 5.8 is usually identified by the
crowds around it. This route is a left facing dihedral.
This climb is a trad route following a crack in the dihedral
In Suburbia 10.a is a heavily traveled route located to
the left of Thirty Seconds. Climb the face past two pitons
and three bolts.