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Climbing:  Little Cottonwood Canyon

The Little Cottonwood Canyon has long been the destination of climbers from around the US.  The ”Little” is mostly comprised of granite. The majority of the climbs follow cracks and other weaknesses. There are quite a few slabby “sport” routes, Little Cottonwood sport routes are not your typical sport routes. Most of these routes were pioneered from the ground up, in bold style. A good place for the budding leader is the Gate buttress. Climbs of all kinds dot the surface of the gate buttress. Presently, the LDS church is removing boulders from this area to build their new assembly building, therefore access is kind of tight here. This area was once a spectacular bouldering playground with a variety of problems. Who knows what effect this project will have on this beautiful place?

Lisa’s Falls is a great area for someone new to the sport. Easy sport and trad routes can be found here. A waterfall provides a pleasant atmosphere. Many people also climb here, so be prepared for crowds.

Click here for an on-line climbing guide of Lisa's Falls.

A great place to escape the heat of the summer days is the coal pitch gulch area. This crag is accessed by the pump house parking area. You can spot this gully from the road, just follow the trail over the bridge. head east for a while and make ywpe23.jpg (26407 bytes)our way up to the gully. Pentapitch is located down low on this gully and is a great climb. Head further up and find the gulch area. Here there are a number of great sport routes on excellent granite.

Additional Resources



Utah Atlas and Gazetteer

Climber's Guide to American Fork/Rock Canyon

Rock Climbing Idaho's City of Rocks (Falcon Guide)

Classic Rock Climbs No. 1: Joshua Tree National Park, CA

Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake

Rock Climbing Utah's Wasatch Range (Falcon Guide)

Mountaineering : The Freedom of the Hills  

A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range (3rd Edition)

Desert Rock I : Rock Climbs in the National Parks

Desert Rock II : Wall Street to the San...Desert Rock: Wall Street/San Rafael Swell

Desert Rock III: Moab to Colorado National Monument

Jackson Hole : A Sport Climbing and Bouldering Guide

Selected Climbs in the Desert Southwest: Colorado and Utah

Rock Climbing Utah (FalconGuide)



Rock:  Australia's Climbing Magazine

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