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Climbing:  Lisa's Falls

Disclaimer:  CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS   This is only a guide, you are responsible for your own safety.  For a more detailed guide, purchase the Ruckman's Guide to the Wasatch.

If you want to climb on great granite with a pleasant surrounding Lisa's Falls is tough to beat.  A waterfall splits the crag in half with climbs on either side.  lisasfalls001.jpg (44387 bytes)The base of the crag seems to change every year with rockfall and avalanches scouring the landscape.  If slabs are your forte you will like Lisa's, most of the climbs are on less then vertical terrain.  Have your foot technique prepared, most of the bolted climbs involve smearing on tiny nubbins and seams with nothing for the hands.

Lisa's Falls Left and Sweet spot are both rated R and are best top-roped.  You can gain access to the chains by scrambling up the trail to the west.  But be careful this area has been the scene of accidents before.

Sweep Left is a great route that is continuously difficult for the first 60 feet.  The first crux seems to get harder every year as the rock gets more glazed.

wpe3.jpg (62090 bytes)

Flee Flicker first bolted route to the east of the waterfall.  This is one of those routes where you must trust your feet.  The climbing gets much easier after the first bolt

Fleeting Glimpse is the next bolted line.  This route has gotten much less intimidating this year as there is a new bolt.  There is a bolt between the first and what used to be the second.  This route previously had groundfall potential.  I have led the route in it's old form and welcome the new bolt!

Lisa's Falls Right is a great gear route!  Follow the crack then ledges to the first set of chains.  Then traverse right and up into the dihedral that leads to the second set of chains.  A single rope rappel will get you down to the first set of chains another rappel and you're on the ground.

Additional Resources



Utah Atlas and Gazetteer

Climber's Guide to American Fork/Rock Canyon

Rock Climbing Idaho's City of Rocks (Falcon Guide)

Classic Rock Climbs No. 1: Joshua Tree National Park, CA

Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake

Rock Climbing Utah's Wasatch Range (Falcon Guide)

Mountaineering : The Freedom of the Hills  

A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range (3rd Edition)

Desert Rock I : Rock Climbs in the National Parks

Desert Rock II : Wall Street to the San...Desert Rock: Wall Street/San Rafael Swell

Desert Rock III: Moab to Colorado National Monument

Jackson Hole : A Sport Climbing and Bouldering Guide

Selected Climbs in the Desert Southwest: Colorado and Utah

Rock Climbing Utah (FalconGuide)



Rock:  Australia's Climbing Magazine

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